Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a global network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to learn these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
